If you’re like most of us, then buying a bra is one of the most dreaded adventures in the world of shopping. However it is worth learning a little about the undergarment and how if changes our overall look and appearance when it comes to fashion. It is often stated that the most important part of an outfit is what goes underneath of it.
A well fitted and good brassiere has the ability to reshape our look and not to mention, it makes the whole day much better. Some experts would go as far as to say that a properly fitted bra can recreate out entire image. We wouldn’t go that far, but it important to understand the correct types and sizes of bras to wear in order to ensure our fashion statements are expressed properly.
An international study found that 64% of women surveyed are in fact wearing the incorrect bra size, another study conducted in the United States showed that over 80% of U.S. women are in fact wearing the incorrect bra size!
So now down to business…
It’s imperative to know the parts of a bra. In order to pinpoint where a bra does or does not fit well you should know what the parts are that comprise it.
The cup: The part where your breasts fit into. It’s usually made of stretchy fabric, and can have up to three tailored seams.
The band: This is the elastic part that goes all the way around your chest.
The wings: These are the portion of the band that extend from the end of the cups to the center of the back.
The strap: These go over the shoulders and are often adjustable, and sometimes padded.
The closure: This is usually a hook and eye set at the center back. However it can also be in front, or absent.
The center gore: This is the part between the cups in the front.
A properly fitted bra feels much more comfortable and as we mentioned in concerns to fashion it will make your clothes fit and look better.
We’re not huge fans of mathematics, but it is important to learn how to figure out your own dimensions:
Getting your Band Size: Stand in front of a large mirror wearing a non-padded bra. Stand straight and relax. Expand your rib cage as if you’re about to blow out candles. Using a soft tape measure, measure all the way around your body, placing the tape measure right beneath your breasts.
If your measurement is an even number, add four (+4) to that number. And if you’re an odd number, add five (+5), rounding up if necessary to the next even number.
Getting your Cup Size: While wearing a non-padded bra, measure completely around the fullest part of your bust (across the nipple) without pulling tight. Make sure the tape measure goes around your entire back. Make sure that the measuring tape isn’t dipping down in the back.
Subtract the number measured from your band size (B – A = C). The result will indicate your appropriate cup size, based on the following guide:
0 = AA | 1 = A | 2 = B | 3 = C | 4 = D | 5 = DD | 6 = DDD
Note: It is important to understand that the size of the cup varies with the band size. The size of the cup will increase along with the band size, and vice versa. If you want to try a smaller band size, you’ll need to compensate by choosing a larger cup size. For example, if you find the band on a 36B bra is too loose, go for a 34C instead.
And if you want to try a larger band size, you’d need a smaller cup. For example, if a 34B is too tight around the band, try a 36A.
Remember when trying on a new bra it should fit perfect on the loosest eyelet / clasp. A bra stretches over time and you will need to tighten it as it wears down with age.
Some tried and true tips on what you should ask yourself:
Does the band ride up your back?
If yes, your bra is either too large or needs to be tightened. If it’s still too loose after you’ve adjusted the band, it’s time to go down a band size (and possibly up a cup).
Does your breast tissue spill over or bulge under the cup?
If yes, your cups are too small and you need to go up a cup size.
Do the cups pucker or gap?
If your breasts don’t fill out the cups, your bra is too large.
Do your straps slip and slide?
If you’ve adjusted your straps and they still fall off, either the band is too big or your bra has lost its elasticity. If you have sloped shoulders, opt for a racer back bra or a style with convertible straps.
Do your straps dig into your shoulders?
If so, try loosening the straps. If that doesn’t solve the problem, it’s likely the cups are too small and you need to go up a cup size.
Does the wire poke and prod?
If so, you’re wearing a cup size that’s too small.
If you are going for a professional bra fitting but would like to take your own measurements, a more in depth methodology may be used by following the chart below. Take the appropriate measurements and write them down, then just take them to the store with you!
Really want to know all the types of bras available out there…here is a list with short descriptions of each…we’ve underlined the types of bras that should according to experts be in every women’s closet.
Glossary of Bra Styles and Types of Bras
Adhesive Bra
Adhesive bras are comprised of bra cups with medical grade adhesive on one side, which allow for the adhesive bra to be worn several times. Adhesive bras provide little support, however, they help fill out the bust as well as conceal the nipple under light fabrics.
Air Bra
Air bras are equipped with small bags of air in each cup, which may be removable. Air bras help to enhance the bust and cleavage, providing a more erotic and alluring appeal
Backless Bra
The backless bra, as one may surmise, has no back and may also have no straps. A backless bra is usually self-adhesive, lightweight and self-supporting. It is the perfect bra when wearing low back and backless garments as well as off the shoulder apparel. Some backless bras may have a strap that is in a diamante design to disguise it more under clothing, it can also help to add the illusion of something more feminine underneath.
Balconette Bra
The Balconette bra is similar to the half cup bra, however, provides just a bit more coverage and provides a sexier, more alluring look. The middle of the Balconette bra is slightly different in design to the half cup bra and appears not to be as straight across the bust, which helps provide shape and support.
Bralette
The Bralette bra is typically associated with an unlined wireless bra that pulls over the head. It is more of a leisure bra as it provides little support. The bralette bra style is best suited for small busted women or for some support while sleeping.
Convertible Bra
The Convertible Bra is multi-functional in that it can be worn as a halter neck alone, a halter neck and low back to accompany a similar style dress or top, and also a normal two strap (over the shoulders) with the normal central strap around the back. These bras can be worn under all types and styles of clothing including low back, strapless and of the shoulder items. The convertible bra can also be worn as any standard bra with T shirt tops and dresses. The wonderful thing about multifunction bras is that the shoulder straps can be removed altogether.
Demi Bra
A demi cup bra has less breast coverage. The industry generally cuts a demi cup to 1″ above the nipple point. Most push-up bras are demi cups to show more cleavage. The underwire of a demi cup are much shallower or shorter. Also, most demi cups are designed with a slight tilt to push the breasts towards the center for more cleavage and remove breast tissue from under the arms. The demi cup design is great for petite women who have issues with their underwire poking.
Drop Cup Bra
These are generally known as nursing bras with an easy to use clip at the top of each cup so that the cups can be individually dropped down as and when baby needs to be breastfed. As each cup can be dropped individually it makes breast feeding more discreet for both Mother and Baby. These bras are now very pretty and colorful, unlike years ago when they were usually in white and very plain looking. They help mothers have a good experience with breastfeeding their child and also help to make it less fiddly. The clips are very easy to drop down in a hurry and gives mothers a hand free to adjust babies while they are feeding.
Full Cup Bra
The Full Cup bra covers the entire breast and makes a bra look larger than it is. The full cup is designed to give more support for the breasts, this is very important to help keep the shape and fullness of the breast. Full cup bras are very stylish and can be sexy looking depending on the fabric that they are made from. The full cup bras are ideal for larger breast sizes and pregnant women as less support can lead to a slight sagging of the breasts and back pains.
Front Fastening Bras / Front Closure Bra
Front fastening bras are said by some to be more convenient than back fastenings as the clasps are easier to use and see. Struggling with hooks around the back can be quite uncomfortable and awkward for some, as you can’t see what you’re doing. The hook and eye clasps are also quite small and they can be awkward to line up. Some men may agree that front fastening bras are easier to undo! These bras can be wired or non-wired and come in a variation of styles, designs and colors. They can be worn under any type and style of clothing including day wear and evening wear whether it is a skirt and jacket suit or a sumptuous and sexy evening gown.
Half Cup Bra
The half cup bra gives three quarters of coverage of the breasts and this gives it a sexier look and feel. The half cup still gives great support while still being very fashionable and youthful. These bras are ideal for younger wearers or those that still have firm breasts and they can help to give the look of more cleavage. They are ideal to wear with any clothing even low front cut tops and dresses.
Halter Bra
The halter neck bra has clasps on the straps, which attach at the back of the neck and also around the back as a normal bra does. The coverage of the breasts is similar to the half cup cut. The Halter neck bra is suitable to wear under lots of different outfits including strapless tops or dresses and those off the shoulder items of clothing that are so popular in the summer months.
Liquid Bra
The liquid bras contain a small pouch of liquid gel in each cup. The liquid bra helps to give the illusion of more cleavage and improve lift, they can sometimes add almost a whole cup size to your bust. Liquid bras don’t have any lumps or bumps so shouldn’t make your breasts look an odd shape or size. Liquid bras can also help with the look of any outfit and can be worn at any time, day or evening, with any outfit. They may or may not have removable inserts depending on the make and style of the bra. There is a more natural look and feel with these bras. There are more and more different designs of liquid bras and they are available in a variety of different sizes and styles.
Nursing Bra / Maternity Bra
Maternity Bras are worn by women while pregnant and they are designed to help give as much support as possible while your breasts grow and fill out during pregnancy. We all gain a little weight during pregnancy and this extra weight helps to increase breast size, so you may find that you need to buy quite a few bras throughout the 9 months of pregnancy, and you will need to have support while they grow to help reduce sagging. Maternity bras are made in varying designs and are very fashionable now, with different colors and styles, depending on the occasion. There are even Multi-way maternity bras now, so you can look stunning in evening wear and day wear depending on the time of year and whether you are trying to feel cool or look glamorous.
Minimizer Bra
The minimizer tends to be more for larger cup sizes DD and up, as they are designed to make the breasts look smaller than normal. The minimizer also helps to prevent ‘spill over’ and ‘gaping button’ syndrome in shirts and blouses. It should also help to give a more flattering and smoother look to the bust. Sometimes even with the right sized bra there can be a few lumps and bumps from the breasts and this is when a minimizer bra comes in. These bras can be worn with day and evening wear and can give a smoother look around the bust area under clothing. The minimizer helps to reduce the size of the breasts and give added support for larger sizes. As larger sizes may hang more with age they need the extra support and uplift.
Padded Bra
Padded bras are fairly self-explanatory but do vary slightly, some have thicker padding than others. They offer anything from a slight lift to the bust line or a more push up effect, as well as comfort. All are very fashionable and feminine. Some padded bras may have removable insert pads others are just padded more on the lower part of the cup to give more lift and to help give the effect of more cleavage. The padding is in different thicknesses for different styles of padded bras and it may also depend on the fabric used in the making of the bras. Padded bras come in many sizes, colors and materials
Push Up Bra
Contrary to popular belief there is a difference between the padded and push up bras. The push up has more padding in a slightly different place and so gives more lift and cleavage to the bust. This padding is usually in the form of inserts that fit into a pocket on the inside of each cup these inserts are sometimes called fillets. These pads or fillets are usually made of sponge or some other material that will give a more natural look and feel to the breasts. The pads can sometimes be inserted or removed as necessary depending on the look you require. They can help to improve the look of cleavage or to help enhance the look of whatever outfit you are wearing. The Push-up bra can be worn at any time not just for evenings out, they can come in varying degrees of padding and designs and the fabrics are in various colors and patterns.
Racerback Bra
Racerback bras are also called T-back and sportback bras. A racer-back bra is any design for the back that allows maximum movement of the back and arms. It can have a high curve near the neckline with a T-strap down the center back; have bra straps attached close together on a back with a center back panel; or have cut-outs around the shoulder blades.
Because of the back design, a racer-back bra will most commonly be front closure. It therefore has all the front closure challenges mentioned above. The strap placement may also be too close to your neck, pushing down on your cervical nerve, which runs from your neck to your shoulders. Therefore, headaches, neck pain, numbness and shoulder pain are frequent complaints by women who have tried racer-back bras.
Seamless Bra
The seamless bra has no seams on the cups and some may or may not be underwired. They would still give some support but are not as supporting as underwired bras. Seamless bras are very elegant in style and fit and give a cleaner line under tight or close fitting clothing. These bras are ideal for wearing with evening wear that needs a more elegant look and day wear that needs to have a clean smooth look. Seamless bras are perfect under all types of clothing from t-shirts and Lycra tops to seductive cocktail dresses.
Shelf Bra
A shelf bra is a bra with an underwire and a very small cup which does not cover the nipple. Apart from being extremely titillating to men, smaller breasted women can wear shelf bras in place of a bra if they want a “natural” look, but without the sagging. If you want to go braless, but secretly wish you had some support, a shelf bra is the answer.
Sports Bra
Women’s s ports bras are designed to reduce breast bounce and give great support for the bust while exercising. It helps to keep your breasts in place whilst you’re doing energetic sports. Sports bras vary in many ways, depending on how active you are and what kind of sport you do, will depend on the type of sports bra you will need to buy. A lot of sports bras have a range of different supports for low impact sports up to high impact for more strenuous and active sports. Whether you are doing aerobics, tennis, running or horse riding these bras help a lot to take the strain off the breast and chest muscles.
Strapless Bra
Of all bra styles, the strapless bra is the most technically challenging to design. Without straps, they must rely completely on the strength of the fabric, the design of the band, and the shape of the underwire to stay in place and provide support. A strapless bra without underwire is a bandeau and has no significant support.
The most successful strapless bras have a wide band; boning under the arms and at the center front; deep underwire; gripper-like silicone strips along the inside to reduce slippage; and special elastic with exposed small rubber loops to help grip. Some strapless bras also put boning in the cups. Such boning gives additional support to larger breasts.
Strapless underwire are different from other underwire. Not only are the wires they taller, but they also curve in to encompass the breast more than a normal underwire. When the underwire splay, they actually encircle the breast giving better support as well as reduced slippage.
Even with all this technology and sophisticated designing, a strapless bra will always be a little uncomfortable and need to be pulled up throughout the evening if the wearer is active.
T-Shirt Bra
The T-Shirt bra is designed to provide a smooth appearance under soft and thin materials, such as a traditional t-shirt, hence the name T-shirt bra. The term t=shirt bra and seamless bra may be used interchangeably.
Triangle Bra
The triangle bra cut is really self-explanatory, the fabric is cut in a triangular shape. The triangle bra is not usually underwired but some manufacturers may. The center of the bra is unlike most as it is merely connected to the chest strap of the bra. Most bras have a central piece of material that attaches all pieces to the chest strap, but the design for the Triangle bra is very different in that they do not have this. The reason this is possible is due to the fact that they are not generally wired. Although they are not wired they can still give good support to the breasts and add a more natural shape and look. Without the wire the bust can support itself and so in turn will not cause any pinching or squeezing that some people may find with underwire.
Underwire Bra
The underwired bra is designed to give added support and shape to the bust, and help to reduce any sagging. Underwired bras can be very sexy and elegant in their design and fit. Some styles can give a seductive plunge look to the breasts. These bras are usually worn with everyday clothing but can be worn with evening and party wear also. They come in various different styles and designs and can be either plain looking or elegantly seductive. Underwired bras are designed for older teenagers and women as these are the people who the support younger girls who are still developing need may find that wired bras cause the breasts to be deformed or misshapen.
Zip Cup Bra
The Zip Cup is also a maternity or nursing bra, the difference between this and the drop cup is that the zip is on the outer side of the bra, starting from the top of the cup. This makes breast feeding even more convenient as you can drop the cup down using one hand instead of both as may be needed with the drop cup. The zip cup is just as discreet as the drop cup bra. The Zip is constructed in the same way as it would be on trousers or skirts in that it has fabric behind to prevent any pinching of the skin when in use. The outer part of the zip also has a fabric liner constructed so that you baby will not be able to harm themselves on it. The Zip cup Nursing bras as with any drop cup are very modern in their design and so there is no need to feel frumpy even when feeding your baby. The Fabrics are both modern, comfortable and stylish, some even have different colors or patterns.
